The secret ingredients of a rising star
21.06.2024 Profile, Pays-d'Enhaut, Hôtellerie, Awards, Gastronomy, Profile, Lifestyle, MagazineCrafting a culinary journey since its inception in 2021, Rougemont boasts a hidden treasure within its boundaries – the renowned Valrose Hotel & restaurant. Guided by Sabine and Benoît Carcenat’s meticulous care, this establishment has rapidly soared to the pinnacles ...
Crafting a culinary journey since its inception in 2021, Rougemont boasts a hidden treasure within its boundaries – the renowned Valrose Hotel & restaurant. Guided by Sabine and Benoît Carcenat’s meticulous care, this establishment has rapidly soared to the pinnacles of global gastronomy, garnering prestigious accolades at a remarkable pace.
In Switzerland, within the confines of incredibly exclusive circles boasting fewer than thirty members, you’ll find fraternities of triplets, officially selected national football team players, billionaires, and even two Michelin-star chefs. While the first two groups often convene in intimate mountain resorts, haute cuisine typically maintains its stronghold in urban areas.
GstaadLife invites you to indulge in a delightful journey with Sabine and Benoît Carcenat at Le Valrose.
In a bold departure from the norm, the chef Benoît Carcent, Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2015, chose to stake his culinary claim in Rougemont in 2021. With an illustrious background working for gastronomic giants like Joël Robuchon, Thierry Marx, and Christian Parrat, Chef Carcenant, alongside his wife Sabine – a native of the region – assumed ownership of the village’s iconic hotel-restaurant, Le Valrose.
The restaurant quickly gained acclaim, earning 18 points from Gault et Millau and Chef of the Year 2023 honours, showcasing Carcenat’s culinary brilliance. Within one year of its debut in the prestigious guide, the restaurant secured a second Michelin star in October 2023. The Valrose achieved these milestones rapidly, including forming a top-tier team amidst industry staffing challenges. Chef Carcenat owes much of his meteoric success to family bonds, creative instinct, unwavering passion, destiny’s hand, and the evocative power of emotion and memories.
How did you come to choose Le Valrose?
Sabine Carcent, in charge of the hôtel: A customer once said, “It’s destiny.” Indeed, it felt as though the opportunity found us rather than the other way around. Often, these unplanned ventures unfold most beautifully when we embrace what comes our way. Taking over Le Valrose in the Pays-d’Enhaut felt like it was meant to be – a chapter written especially for us.
Benoit Carcenat: It was serendipitous. Our daughter was just a few months old, and it was our wedding anniversary. We entrusted her to her grandparents for the evening and headed to Le Valrose. It was our first meal together since becoming parents and stepping into the restaurant; its charm immediately struck me. The setting felt intimate, nestled within the picturesque village, and we could envision ourselves being a part of it. And so, the seeds of our journey were planted.
Was there a risk in venturing outside the traditional gastronomic circuit?
BC: This represented a risk for sure, and it still does today because even if our restaurant is a great success, it’s still new. However, this relatively isolated location allowed us to carve our own path and develop our cuisine at our rhythm, unencumbered by fleeting trends that often dictate the pace in urban culinary scenes. Stepping away from the conventional circuit allowed us the space to craft something genuinely authentic and enduring.
SC: I wouldn’t characterise it as risky in terms of demand, as today’s guests love experiences that transcend the ordinary, seeking out exceptional destinations that offer a departure from the mundane. This desire for authenticity and uniqueness is increasingly evident in the tourism industry. Nestled within the historic confines of one of Switzerland’s most picturesque villages, our establishment beckons travellers seeking respite from the city hustle. Though initially challenging to attract attention, our proximity to urban centers means our guests can escape the city in just an hour and a half, devoting themselves in an entirely different world.
The hospitality industry is struggling to find skilled employees. How did you assemble such a proficient team in a short time frame?
BC: Our approach is deeply rooted in human values, prioritising our employees’ well-being and growth opportunities. We uphold rigorous standards of quality and foster a culture of continuous learning and development. While staffing dynamics are ever-evolving, we cultivate an environment where every team member feels empowered to contribute their ideas. Our role is to guide while nurturing a collaborative team spirit. I believe our project has resonated with both our clientele and our staff.
SC: Despite the industry-wide staffing challenges, what sets us apart is our commitment to offering a truly enriching experience for our employees. Here, they gain invaluable professional insights and are privileged to work alongside Benoit, renowned as one of France’s finest artisans. It’s a unique opportunity for personal and professional growth.
Can you translate emotions into culinary creations?
BC: Cooking is an art of emotions, a tapestry woven with memories, savoir-faire, and technique. But it’s not the technical prowess that lends our dishes their soul; instead, it’s the journeys they evoke, the impressions they leave, the shared memories they stir. It’s a cuisine steeped in emotion above all else. Growing up, my family ritualised Sunday roast chicken stuffed with grated bread – a comforting tradition made even more special with the addition of girolles by my mother. Recreating this cherished meal is my way of honouring our family’s bond. I envision a dish of toasted bread bathed in chicken gravy, crowned with succulent girolles, a homage to a tradition dear to my heart.
Do you find culinary opportunities in the Alpine region similar to those in your native Périgord?
BC: I see striking parallels between my homeland and this picturesque landscape – teeming with smallscale producers and celebrating the bounty of changing seasons. Here, as in the southwest of France, nature’s offerings shine: mushrooms, chestnuts, and mountain herbs paint a vibrant culinary canvas. While geese and ducks reign in Périgord, cows and sheep are emblematic of this region. Yet, amidst these differences, a shared reverence for tradition unites us. The Alpine countryside, much like the Pays-d’Enhaut and Saanenland, echoes the essence of my culinary roots.
Was this abundance of local products a factor in your decision to establish yourself in Rougemont?
BC: The terroir wasn’t the primary draw to Rougemont, but its treasures revealed themselves to me after my arrival. Here, I collaborate closely with artisans, and we bind the gifts of nature – be it delicate flowers, luscious berries, or fragrant mountain herbs. These elements have become integral to our culinary identity, intertwining seamlessly with our dishes. As custodians of gastronomic heritage, chefs need to harmonise with their surroundings, becoming an organic part of the landscape we celebrate.
What sparks the creative process behind crafting a dish?
BC: It’s difficult to describe because I don’t follow a single method. It is a process that doesn’t adhere to a singular formula. Each creation has its own unique path. I draw inspiration from emotions, whether it’s a craving to harmonise flavours or explore a symphony of colours. Sometimes, I’ll begin with a concept rooted in monochrome. In my mind, I visualise drawers filled with different tastes, open them, and pair the ingredients. Instinct, undoubtedly, plays a pivotal role. I start with a sketch, which is the blueprint for determining cuts and cooking techniques. Ultimately, coherence across the menu is paramount. I adhere to a set of guidelines: never repeat the same texture, colour, or ingredient, nor duplicate plates or sauces. The menu evolves, ensuring each visit offers a fresh culinary adventure.
How do you reconcile your commitment to zero waste with your pursuit of culinary excellence and diversity?
BC: Our approach revolves around maximising the use of every component. For instance, when we work with fish, we extract every ounce of potential. Bones are transformed into a delicate praline, while the skin finds new life as a flavourful gomasio (Japanese condiment). Even the head doesn’t go to waste; it becomes the foundation for a rich sauce. This ethos isn’t just about minimising waste; it’s our humble contribution to the planet. Striving for zero waste is both a mission and a challenge, propelling us to innovate and uncover new culinary frontiers.
How do you find moments to recharge from the demands of your work?
BC: When it comes to handling pressure, the rigour of my work and its demands are second nature to me; they’re deeply ingrained. It’s more of a challenge for those who work alongside me. But spending quality time with my children is a complete escape. Their presence brings immense joy to my life.
SC: Children can be quite demanding, but their energy and curiosity are endlessly fascinating. Spending time with them is a departure from the hustle and bustle of the Valrose. We also escape by indulging in family adventures, whether travelling or exploring the great outdoors. These moments create a precious oasis of tranquillity amidst our busy lives.
Once a popular village restaurant, how do you ensure Le Valrose remains a welcoming haven for locals?
BC: We warmly welcome everyone who walks through our doors, but there is no denying that our offerings have changed. We’ve adjusted our prices to align with the services we provide, but we’ve maintained the essence of “Le Café du Valrose” (offering a brasserie menu), the heart of our connection with the village. We’ve preserved the basics unchanged, underscoring our commitment to remaining accessible to locals.
SC: At Le Valrose, we envision more than just a restaurant; it’s a welcoming entry point to Rougemont for our guests, who may be discovering this area for the first time. While dining is the primary draw, we take pride in acquainting them with the rich culture and local produce of the Pays-d’Enhaut and Saanenland. Whether suggesting nearby attractions or highlighting seasonal events, we passionately showcase our region’s unique offerings. During quieter months, such as November, when other hotels may be closed, we encourage guests to explore local museums or shops, enriching their experience and enhancing the appeal of our area. Ultimately, our goal is to present a holistic tourism experience that celebrates the diverse attractions of the Pays-d’Enhaut, ensuring visitors find our region irresistible.
Does family and passion for your work go hand in hand?
SC: Our shared passion for the hospitality industry initially brought us together. We each cultivated this passion independently; our joint dedication to this field united us. We met while working at the same hotel. Our journey into this project wouldn’t have been possible without one another. Working together fuels our motivation, as we share a deep-seated passion for our craft.
BC: My earliest culinary memories are intertwined with family gatherings, those cherished moments around the table. I vividly recall my grandmother’s chicken with chanterelle mushrooms, a dish that conjures a sense of nostalgia and warmth. It’s within the family setting that we learn and pass on traditions. We hold these gatherings in high regard, making meals at home a sacred experience, an opportunity to come together, savour each moment and revel in the company of loved ones. Indeed, much of what we cherish in our culinary journey stems from our family roots.
VICTORIA MARTIN
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