Antonella Curioni moved to Gstaad in 1997 and set up her own boutique ten years later. The business has grown and strengthened beyond its initial focus on cashmere, proving that independent fashion can compete against the biggest brands. GstaadLife met with Antonella to talk fashion, design and the recipe for success.

The fashion industry is a tough gig. A fast-moving world of shifting tastes where styles change from one season to the next, requiring exceptional stock management; the ability to understand and predict what clients are going to wear several months hence; an increasing focus on sustainability; and all the while delivering profit margins to make the effort worthwhile. It's not for the faint-hearted.

We see this at work in the Saanenland, a microcosm of the fashion industry at large. Over the years boutiques and fashion labels have come and gone. But when it comes to an appreciation of staying power in this cut-throat world of fashion, Antonella is one to watch. Since establishing her boutique in 2008 her business has survived the world economic crash, Covid and, undaunted, she is currently furrowing a path through the world economic challenges of 2022.

You started with a focus on cashmere. Why was that?
After settling in Gstaad with my family in 1997, I sold knitwear for another lady. I got a taste for business and took the leap to set up my own boutique with my own vision. It was an obvious decision to offer cashmere because it’s such a passion of mine. In fact, I’ve loved pullovers for as long as I can remember. My grandmother used to create them for me when I was a teenager. She even made me sweaters out of cotton to wear in the summer. They were amazing, in the most fantastic colours – light green and light blue like the sea. So when I established my boutique, it was a conscious choice for me to focus on cashmere. It was a product I had known and loved for years and I also had extensive retail experience with it.

You’ve been serving clients in the
Saanenland for fourteen years.
How has your business changed since 2008?
Things have come a long way since the beginning. I started with a small cashmere collection and was focused purely on classical styles. These days my clients are looking for different things. They are seeking more adventurous and trendier designs without compromising on comfort. I’ve responded to this by changing the style of not just what I offer but the overall feel of my boutique. Now I’m very much in fashion rather than just classical design. This has given me room to really explore and play with colours and styles. I’m always excited by the creative process.

Even though I’ve expanded my boutique beyond knitwear, cashmere is still really important to me. There are many different types of cashmere available, and although it can be a little challenging to get hold of the raw materials, I have developed strong relationships with my suppliers. This means I’m always able to source cashmere of excellent quality.

The thing that has stayed constant from the early days, though, is the huge amount of work that goes on behind the scenes. Many long hours are involved in growing a business, especially one that adapts and evolves to continue providing pieces my clients will love. But I do this because I am so passionate about what I offer. I see how they take it to heart and that makes it all worthwhile.

I have learned it’s absolutely essential to be at once very flexible and one step ahead to achieve business success. And committed. Very committed because the fashion world moves so fast.

How do you differentiate yourself from other boutiques in Gstaad?
Of course the other shops in the village also offer cashmere – there’s big competition in knitwear - but I don’t look at what they do. Besides they tend to buy in branded items. It’s of course easier to buy a collection that is already in place because all the work has been done for you.

I create my own collections and I tend to offer styles that I like myself. It’s a system that works. It’s so wonderful to be able to design pieces with my clients in mind. I even customise pieces on demand to my clients’ specific measurements. I am proud to offer this level of personal service; my clients know and trust me which means a lot.

I’m interested in how you create your own fashion collections.
Over the years I have expanded and now create the whole look. Each collection comprises a wide range of items from coats to capes to hats, gloves, scarves, trousers and sweaters right down to socks, shoes and bags. There’s a lot involved and it takes months – it’s a bit like being pregnant! Just to give you an idea, I began work on this winter’s collection last March. First of all, I do a lot of research. I look at what’s in fashion for the next season – especially when it comes to the winter as that is the most important one for us. I love colours so I also do a lot of research as to which colours are on trend. I’m very keen on all the research, coming up with ideas for designs and considering what will delight my clients. It’s such fun.

After I’ve completed the research, I work with my designer. I give her my ideas and pictures to work from. We then create samples and critique them to see if anything needs to be improved. I absolutely value the opinion of the girls who work in the boutique with me as they’re instrumental in helping to sell the pieces. I always get them involved at this stage.

When all the decisions have been made, the products are created. All my collections are made in Italy. We start to receive the completed items from about October, though the most important part of my collection arrives in the boutique around the beginning of December – in time for Christmas presents! There’s a lot of joy in the air when we see the result of all our work and I can’t wait to unpack the boxes and hang the pieces in the shop. Oouf, like I said it’s a lot of work, but very rewarding. You wouldn’t be in this business if you didn’t have a true passion for it. Happily I do!

Your boutique seems to be open all year round. How does business look in the Saanenland?
Things don’t stand still and for sure business has changed in the Saanenland. We have seen lots of labels and shops come and go but I am still here, serving my clients and growing my base among the younger generation. I firmly believe that service, quality, price and trust are the elements of establishing and nurturing a successful business over the longterm. Normally we’re open the whole year, day in, day out, except for a little time in November. But even if the boutique is closed, our clients can still call us and we will serve them in the best way possible.

I can say for sure that buying behavior has changed over the years. People have certainly become more price sensitive and there are now more established brands in the village, but high quality and personalized service still sells. In fact it’s an opportunity for independent labels like mine and there’s room in the m a rket for us.
This is why I build relationships with my clients. I understand they don’t want to be wearing the same dress as everyone else – they want something special and unique. And that is where all my hard work pays off in creating collections that inspire them.

What is your favorite part about running the boutique?
That I’m my own boss. As with anything, there’s a good and bad side to this. I work much more (often seven days a week) than if I was employed by someone else. Not everyone could do this. But this is what’s needed to be successful because nothing falls from the sky. There’s nothing quite like seeing the new collection arrive in the boutique.

So yes, it’s hard work but I have never regretted this decision. You have to build your credibility, your client base, their trust in you, everything. But if you have a passion for your product and a connection with your clients, it’s incredibly rewarding. How we dress and what we wear is more than just about the clothes – it’s about how they make us feel. And that is priceless.

Finally, what do you like best about the Saanenland?
I love walking. If I have the time, I enjoy walking to and from the boutique each morning and evening - even in the cold and the snow. It’s so beautiful here. I love breathing in the fresh air after being inside all day and this also boosts my immune system. My husband has the restaurant Lac Retaud at Les Diablerets which I also like to visit, and if I have time to go skiing, it’s on Eggli or Wispile as those mountains are right here close to the boutique. When owning your own business there’s no rest for the wicked!

ANNA CHARLES