Weihnachtsguetzli

The run-up to Christmas in the UK is heralded by the arrival of mince pies, delicious pastry cases filled with raisins, peel, suet and brandy. Boxes of them are piled high in shops, national newspapers hold blind taste tests, and millions more bake them at home. They are as much a part of the season as the tree itself, and every family seems to have a firm view on which filling makes the best pie.

In Switzerland, biscuits step into the spotlight at this time of year. Weihnachtsguetzli is a baking tradition that stretches back centuries. In the Middle Ages, monasteries baked spiced treats to give to the poor at Christmas and New Year, turning simple ingredients into something special for the season. Over time, these practices grew into the biscuit traditions that still fill Swiss kitchens today, with recipes often passed down from one generation to the next.

The biscuit line-up
Each biscuit has its own character, from light and buttery to rich and spicy, reflecting different regional tastes. For the uninitiated, here is a quick round-up:

Brunsli are the classic chocolate biscuit of the Swiss Christmas season. They come from Basel and have been around for centuries, with early recipes recorded in the mid- 1700s. Made from ground almonds, sugar, egg white and cocoa, they are rich and chewy with a slightly crisp edge. I think they go really well with a cup of coffee after lunch.

Mailänderli are the classic all-rounders, buttery and lightly scented with lemon, and traditionally cut into stars, bells or hearts. A friend once told me they are the first thing Swiss children learn to bake and the first to vanish from any plate.

Bernese Oberland, fashioned from a patterned iron press similar to a waffle maker. The dough is simple (flour, sugar, eggs and butter, sometimes with cream or vanilla), giving them a light, buttery sweetness. If you buy them in shops, they are often wrapped in cellophane and tied with ribbons, stacked neatly in tall bundles.

Brätzeli are thin, crisp wafers from the Bernese Oberland, fashioned from a patterned iron press similar to a waffle maker. The dough is simple (flour, sugar, eggs and butter, sometimes with cream or vanilla), giving them a light, buttery sweetness. If you buy them in shops, they are often wrapped in cellophane and tied with ribbons, stacked neatly in tall bundles.

Anisbrötli are an anise-flavoured Christmas biscuit with a long history in Switzerland. They are shaped into small crescents and baked until firm, giving them a crisp, crumbly bite and a clear anise taste. A speciality from the Baden area, they’re a popular choice.

Next come the Zimtsterne: chewy, aromatic biscuits with a strong cinnamon flavour and decorated with a white glaze. They first appeared in the 1700s when cinnamon was a costly import to Europe. Some believe these biscuits should be saved for Christmas Eve while others, me included, eat them as soon as they come out of the oven.ribbons, stacked neatly in tall bundles.

Finally, my favourite: Spitzbuben - two layers of short, buttery dough sandwiched together with jam (often raspberry). The name means little rascals and as anyone who has tried keeping them for more than a few days knows, they are immensely moreish and impossible to leave alone. Traditionally decorated with icing sugar and punctured with three round holes, they are a more recent arrival on the Christmas scene and a very welcome one.

Each biscuit stands on its own, yet together they define the Swiss festive season. I will still bake my mince pies, but I am confident I could work through a box of these biscuits as well. Strictly for research, you understand.

ANNA CHARLES