We arrive at the base station of the Saanersloch, where we’re handed ski poles and headlamps. It’s only 5:30p.m., but it’s already completely dark. Only one more day of 2022 to go, and unfortunately, the weather has been rainy, and there is little snow. Not exactly the best conditions for an uphill night hike, but nevertheless, we’re curious to experience the “Zauberweg”.

Now in its 4th edition, the Zauberweg (“magic trail”) is a 2.2 km snowshoe hike from Saanenmöser to the Lochstafel restaurant on the Hornberg through the wintery forest, with 17 light and sound installations on the way. It is the brainchild of Phipu Bigler, founder of Bärgprojekt, a local events company, who initiated the project in 2019.

Ready to get started and eager to make it to the Lochstafel restaurant in time for fondue, we see an arrow pointing uphill into the dark. Trusting the footprints of those who have gone before us, we soon arrive at the first installation, a bright gateway to “One World”, the theme of this year’s trail. The previous edition explored “out of space”, “Mt. Everest”, and “Hansel and Greta (Thunberg)”. Daisy, who is visiting from Manhattan and agreed to accompany me on this adventure, is surprised by the stillness around us. It’s a stark contrast to the city that never sleeps. We chatter in the dark between installations and slowly make our way up. We giggle about getting lost, but the lights of the following installation keep us on track. As we go, we travel around the globe visiting illuminated world wonders and fantastical interpretations created by the Zauberweg’s “magicians” and guest artists Veronika Klaus, Valentin Pfisterer and Jan Lauber.
“Every year we start from ‘zero’”, Bigler explains. “Over the summer I think about the theme and the installations. What material do we have, and what do we need? How can we use the existing differently? Where does which imagined element work best? Starting the Zauberweg from scratch every year is my personal challenge.”

I’ve been coming to the Saanenland my whole life and thought I had seen it all, but the Zauberweg offered a wholly new and enchanting way to experience the area. Lasers shone high up in the trees creating incredible patterns among the branches deep into the night, a towering backlit icicle towered over a stream, and an animated film about love healing the world played on a large screen at the middle station of the Saanersloch gondola. A giant 2m wide disco ball glistened in silence as it hung in the forest. And those are just a few highlights. The installations both contrasted and conversed with the natural surroundings to create an intimate dialogue on the relationships at play between light and dark, nature and humans.

Our hike took slightly longer than the projected 90 minutes, probably because it included many photo stops and discussions of the experience along the way. However, when we finally made it to the restaurant, we felt we had earned the delicious fondue. After dinner, the adventure continued with an exhilarating sled ride back down to Saanenmoser, providing just the right amount of adrenalin and fresh air to help us digest and end the evening on a high note.

The Zauberweg is a truly memorable experience, Bigler and his team managed to cast a spell on us from beginning to end.

ANNIE KEMPTON

 

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