DISCOVERING THE ENCHANTMENTS OF PORTUGAL' S GENTLE ANSWER TO THE G&T.

The noble gin and tonic has been the uncontested title holder for Europe’s favourite mixed drink since the mid- 1800s, radiating outward from England along with her colonial ambitions. Unparalleled in its ability to invigorate body and soul (gin kept spirits high while the quinine-enriched tonic staved off the pervasive threat of malaria), the G&T established a dominance in the drinking habits of generations that shows no sign of abating.

And small wonder: the deep and varied flavour of even the most humble London dry gin—herbaceous, floral, and bracing—mixed with the bittersweet effervescence of tonic water is a study in equilibrium. It’s an elegant mix but potent, and with the current inclination toward lowerand zero-proof cocktails, a less muscular version of this flavour spectrum would be welcome.

Fortunately, Portugal boasts the perfect alternative. Enter the Porto Tonico, the local sobriquet for white port mixed with tonic water. A staple aperitivo across the Iberian Peninsula, it boasts the same verdant profile as the G&T with a fraction of its alcoholic punch. This makes it a splendid choice for leisurely, sustained conviviality without fear of getting too far over one’s skis, as it were.

White port is the lesser known sibling to the market-dominating ruby and tawny, but it has been produced in Portugal for about as long.

The Douro Valley in the north, stretching inland from the coastal city of Porto (from whence port takes its name, not, as is often assumed, from the name of the country) toward the Spanish border, is the seat of production, and has been an official appellation since 1756 (making it the third oldest distinct wine in the world, after Italian Chianti and Hungarian Tokaj).

Porto Branco, as white port is known in its homeland, is made with the same blend of grapes as Portugal’s dry white wines, which undergo a brisk two-day fermentation cut short by the addition of a neutral grape spirit, which locks in sweetness from the remaining sugars and increases the alcohol content by volume to 17– 20 percent. The wine thus fortified is aged in oak for the relatively short period of two to three years, smoothing the edges, adding a honey-golden hue, and imparting flavours of vanilla and spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove—notes also found in well-crafted gins.

The next time you’re in the mood for a fresh and complex cocktail without the wallop, pour a two-to-one mix of white port to tonic water over ice, and finish with whatever fresh garnish inspires you—a lemon wheel, an orange zest, cucumber slices, a sprig of mint, perhaps. One of the delights of the Porto Tonico is how customizable it is to the seasons, the meal you’re embarking upon, or your personal preferences.

SIMON OGDEN