The original Hermès Birkin – scuffed, storied, and potentially record-breaking – resurfaces at Sotheby’s

It’s not every day that a worn black handbag causes a stir. But this isn’t just any handbag – it’s the original Birkin, the prototype created in 1984 for the late actress and singer Jane Birkin. Now, four decades later, the legendary accessory is heading to auction at Sotheby’s, and speculation is mounting over who might claim the most famous bag in fashion history.

The story of the Birkin is the stuff of fashion folklore. During a flight from Paris to London in the early 80s, Jane Birkin – then toting a large wicker basket in lieu of a handbag – accidentally spilt its contents into the lap of her seatmate, Jean-Louis Dumas, then CEO of Hermès. The two struck up a conversation about the perfect handbag, and Dumas listened closely. The result: a custom-designed, practical yet elegant leather bag tailored to Birkin’s busy lifestyle.

This one-of-a-kind prototype is full of unique details. Unlike later models, it features a fixed shoulder strap, closed metal rings on the clasps, and a zipper made by Éclair instead of Riri. Even the proportions differ – it combines the width and height of what would become the Birkin 35 with the depth of a Birkin 40. And in a personal touch that reflects Birkin’s famously unpretentious style, a nail clipper hangs from a chain at the end of the strap – always close at hand.

Despite its age and clear signs of wear – bulging shape, sticker residue, scuffed corners – the bag holds tremendous cultural and historical value. It was first auctioned by Birkin herself in 1994 to benefit an AIDS charity in France and again in 2000, eventually entering private hands. Now it’s back in the spotlight, offered as “The Original Hermès Birkin Bag” with no official estimate, though comparable bags typically start around €10 000. Given its provenance, this one could fetch far more – potentially becoming the most expensive handbag ever sold at auction.

So who might be bidding? Names like Kim Kardashian, known for her affinity for iconic memorabilia, have already been floated. There’s also the possibility that Hermès itself will enter the fray. After all, “heritage” has become a powerful tool for luxury brands, both as design inspiration and as a means of educating clients on legacy and value. Acquiring the original Birkin would be a shrewd way for Hermès to reclaim a piece of its mythology.

The bag has already toured the globe, exhibiting in Paris and Hong Kong. It will remain on view in New York until 12 June, before returning to Paris for public display from 3 to 9 July at Sotheby’s on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Bidding opens on 26 June as part of the Fashion Icons auction, which concludes on 10 July – fittingly, the final day of Paris Haute Couture Week.

From accidental spill to fashion legend, the Birkin story has come full circle. And as the iconic bag turns 40 this year, its very first iteration is once again in the limelight – worn, yes, but utterly irreplaceable.

Keep track of the auction here

JEANETTE WICHMANN