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Gstaad's archbishop of cheese abdicates

20061213gstaad_cheese_cathedralBy Tim Kilchenmann

Hanspeter Reust’s reign over his cheese diocese has come to an end. The operations director of Molkerei Gstaad, a co-operative that processes the milk from over 80 farmers into dairy products, is alleged to have intentionally mislabelled an eight tonne delivery of mountain cheese as more expensive alpine cheese. When the recipient, a certain Migros, uncovered the discrepancy, Reust feigned ignorance. The specialists were not fooled, however, and Migros’ threat to sever all business ties successfully pressured Reust into stepping down on Monday.

Should we try to keep a straight face about a scandal that ignites many of Switzerland's most hackneyed stereotypes? Yes we should. For the dispute of the country folk needs to be taken seriously for three reasons. Putting it bluntly, cheese matters. Saanenland has as many cows as inhabitants. Farming is still the third largest employment sector. Farms are also crucial to the well-being of the region and play a crucial role in maintaining Saanenland’s authenticity. Reust’s behaviour has called the partnership with Migros, and thus 20% of the Molkerei’s revenue, into question. If Migros were to follow through with its threats, the damage to local farming would be unprecedented.

Secondly, recent press coverage of the cheese affair is symptomatic of what has been printed about Gstaad this season. The region has already been tarnished by the swarms of media representatives from France and Switzerland eager to tear both Johnny Hallyday and the village’s reputation into pieces. Although a second media pilgrimage has not taken place (after all in Paris they only care about eating cheese), the cheese scandal has generated more negative headlines for Gstaad in all the major national papers. Over the course of a single season, two relatively insignificant stories managed to dwarf the effects of Gstaad Tourismus' marketing efforts several times over, but not in a desired way. Restoring confidence in the destination (or simply hoping that all the stories are soon forgotten) is key for Saanenland’s future prosperity. Thirdly, and perhaps most important, Gstaad may have just lost one of its greatest innovators. In many ways, Hanspeter Reust has been a blessing to the region, albeit a controversial one. His most significant achievement is the Davidoff Saveurs gourmet festival. As it expands to Ticino and Mauritius, it spreads Gstaad’s reputation with it. Reust is also commonly associated with the Gstaad Cheese Cathedral, a monument to the finer art and innovation of cheese production. His plans for the future are also noteworthy, and include a chalet park-cum-milk processing facility borne out of the failed milk farm project. While it is impossible to condone Reust’s actions at the Molkerei (and many regard the Migros scandal as just the tip of the iceberg), it would be overly harsh to write off all his achievements. Despite the anger in the community right now, it is unlikely that Gstaad has seen the last of archbishop Reust.

What do you think? What do you think? (Comments 2)

Comments

Evelyne Peten

I am a great fan of Hans-Peter Reust. I would like to hear his side of the story. What could have possibly gone through his mind? For what reason? Has he given his point of view to the Anzeiger?

Regards,

E.Peten

Tim Kilchenmann

To answer your question, today’s Anzeiger wrote:

Reust acted in the interests of the Molkerei as a whole, “so that the stability of Molkerei Gstaad is not endangered.” What he will do in future is currently of secondary importance he says, although he will be available to support the team in future. First Reust wants to concentrate his energy on the hand over, hoping to pass the Molkerei on to his successor in “an absolutely top-condition.”

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